Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud unveils the “Oeuvre d’Or” collection, a new artistic interpretation of its original creation, the Chronomètre FB 1.
This model previously existed in two gold versions: white gold with titanium lugs (FB 1.1) and rose gold with black ceramic lugs (FB 1.2). The collection now welcomes two additional variations, reprising the precious metals of their predecessors, white gold (FB 1.1-2) and rose gold (FB 1.2-1) respectively, while adorning them with original decorations.
The new FB 1.1-2 model in 18-carat white gold stands out in terms of the case itself, since some of its faces are adorned with baguette-cut diamonds for the very first time.
There are four in all: on either side of the crown and alongside the engraving of the limited-edition number facing it at 9 o’clock. In other words, the FB 1.1-2 model is the first creation in its lineage to feature gemsetting instead of the sapphire crystal portholes that historically revealed the key movement components.
This new five-piece limited edition radiates a sparkling, exclusive jewellery design. The crown is also set, a first for Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. The exclusive choice of baguette-cut diamonds evokes the vertical pillar-type construction of the movement beating at its heart.
Black nickel-plated 18-carat gold dagger-shaped facetted cut-out hours and minutes hands, black nickel-plated 18-carat gold arrow-shaped power-reserve pointer and black nickel-plated bronze central seconds hand.
The Chronomètre FB 1.1-2 harmoniously combines an 18-carat white gold case with an 18-carat yellow gold dial. The distinctive design of the watch face offers a broad surface on which to express an exclusive finish: a hand-crafted patina. This patina is created using a combination of engraving techniques that require great manual dexterity.
Each of the five dials in this limited edition is hand-engraved and then subtly coloured to perfect the overall legibility. The FB 1.1-2 model, like Ferdinand Berthoud’s original creations, is adorned with manual engravings that make it unique: “Ferdinand Berthoud – Chronomètre – Val-de-Travers – Suisse”, followed by the individual limited-edition number, “N° X/5”. Opposite these engravings are those indicating the power reserve of the movement: “Haut” and “Bas” (High and Low).
The bracelet is in hand-stitched rolled-edge alligator leather made from a single piece of leather (115 x 75 mm, with a 20 mm buckle), with various sizes available on request. 18-carat white gold pin buckle.
TRIBUTE TO THE MASTER CLOCKMAKER AND MECHANIC BY APPOINTMENT TO THE FRENCH KING AND THE FRENCH NAVY
This first mechanical hand-wound movement to emerge from Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD in Fleurier is a tribute piece inspired by the exceptional work of the founding father and transcends existing standards in the field of Haute Horlogerie.
Featuring a striking structure and driving exceptionally readable indications, Calibre FB-T.FC is equipped with an exclusive constant-force regulation system with suspended fusée and chain transmission, equipped with a differential winding system. It also has a highly distinctive power-reserve mechanism.
A tourbillon with central seconds hand guarantee the optimal timing adjustment of the movement, whose precision and rate accuracy is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute.
The original fusée and chain mechanism developed by the engineers of Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD occupies an exceptionally small space within the movement thanks to its “suspended” construction.
The barrel and fusée of Calibre FB-T.FC are linked by a chain comprising no less than 474 steel links, including more than 300 pins measuring barely 0.30 mm in diameter and all hand-assembled. The chain measures a total 28 cm long and the maximum tension exercised upon it once in place amounts to three kilos.
When the mainspring is associated with a fusée, the barrel drum turns in one direction when the spring winds down and in the opposite direction when it is wound up, thus causing the chain to wrap around the drum. A distinctive feature of Calibre FB-T.FC lies in the fact that its fusée mechanism has been equipped with an unusually designed differential gear.
Calibre FB-T.FC is equipped with a specific system displaying the movement’s power reserve.
Directly linked to the barrel via a driving wheel, the mechanism uses the winding and letting down motion of the mainspring to make a truncated cone move up and down along a threaded arbor secured to the mainplate.
When the barrel sets the driving wheel into motion, the latter drives the cone by means of two long pegs that push it clockwise when moving upwards and counter-clockwise when travelling downwards, respectively corresponding to the winding and letting down of the mainspring.
A mobile arm tipped with a roller jewel serves as a feeler-spindle in measuring the up-and-down motion of the cone, bringing the arm closer or further away from the centre of rotation. A rake-shaped element along the axis of the arm transmits the movement’s power-reserve level to a hand.
FERDINAND BERTHOUD Calibre FB-T.FC is fitted with a tourbillon organ featuring an innovative direct-drive seconds hand whose performance is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing institute.
Equipped with an aerodynamically shaped oversized variable-inertia balance oscillating at a low frequency (3 Hz), the tourbillon carriage of the Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 performs one rotation per minute.
The balance is made of copper beryllium (CuBE) and equipped with a self-compensating balance-spring made of rust-free alloy.
The terminal curve of the balance-spring is delicately shaped by hand in harmony with the noblest watchmaking traditions. To ensure fine adjustment of its amplitude, the rim (felly) of the balance is fitted with two sets of maillechort inertia-blocks, one complete and the other truncated so as to ensure independent adjustment.
The 67-part titanium tourbillon carriage is held in place by a bridge with a single arch and poised by means of two 18-carat gold studs.
The direct-drive seconds display is enabled by the fact that the direct-drive seconds wheel is identical and co-axial with the wheel driving the tourbillon carriage.
- Mechanical hand-wound Calibre FB-T.FC
- 15 ¾ lignes (diameter 35.50 mm – thickness 8.00 mm)
- 45 jewels
- Indications of the hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve
- Suspended fusée and chain constant-force transmission regulation
- 3 Hz low-frequency tourbillon with direct-drive seconds
- 53-hour power reserve
- Movement precision and rate accuracy certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute
- Octagonal 18-carat white gold case set with 20 baguette-cut diamonds (1.99 ct)
- Numbered edition 1/5 to 5/5
- Dynamometric crown system (uncoupling system) in 18-carat white gold with a black ceramic medallion, set with 14 baguette-cut diamonds (0.8 ct)
- 18-carat white gold screw-in exhibition back fitted with a sapphire crystal pane
- Black ceramic lugs and black DLC-treated titanium fastening screws
- Domed and arched sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides
- 18-carat (3N) yellow gold dial, engraved and patinated by hand
- Hand-bevelled dial centre and power-reserve indicator, rhodium-plated chamfers
- Offset circular satin-brushed silver-toned gold hours and minutes subdial, black Arabic numerals
- Circular satin-brushed silver-toned gold seconds track
- Power-reserve indication engraved on the mainplate: “0_1/4_1/2_3/4_1”
- Autonomy indicated by an arrow pointing to the words “HAUT” (high) and “BAS” (low)
- Hand-engraved inscriptions: “Ferdinand Berthoud” “Chronomètre Val-de-Travers Suisse” and the limited edition number
- Hand-stitched rolled-edge alligator leather made from a single piece of leather (115 x 75 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
- 18-carat white gold pin buckle