REFINEMENT AND SUPREME DISTINCTION
The Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 in platinum with its resolutely distinctive character asserts itself by means of an understated yet sophisticated design. Designed to enable light to pour into the movement gear trains, the case reveals fascinating glimpses of the subtle beauty and complexity of these exceptional timepieces. The Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 pays a virtuoso tribute to the incomparable lifework of Ferdinand Berthoud.
The case of the Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 is built according to a distinctive architecture inspired both by the Marine Clocks of Ferdinand Berthoud and by their gimbal suspension system typical of onboard chronometers.
A watertight central container houses the movement, while 18-carat gold octagonal-shaped decorative elements screwed to the case middle endow this watch with a resolutely masculine character.
Four lateral glareproofed sapphire portholes provide a chance to admire the main organs of the movement including the constant-force module and the power-reserve mechanism. Meanwhile, the sapphire crystal case-back offers a spectacular panoramic view of the tourbillon as well as the fusée and chain mechanism.
The design of the hands on the Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 is a reinterpretation of various hand shapes used by Ferdinand Berthoud in his numerous timepieces.
Their complex and original shapes mean that great expertise is required to make them. The hours, minutes and power-reserve hands are crafted in 18-carat gold, while the extremely slender (0.22 mm) and exceptionally long (24.68 mm) seconds hand is made of bronze.
The dagger-shaped hours and minutes hands are finely cut out and facet-polished. The power-reserve indicator features a curved triangular tip, while the slim direct-drive sweep-seconds hand cambered at its far end is fitted with a round counterweight typical of Berthoud regulators.
Designed to match the shade of the dial, these hands ensure perfect legibility of time measurements as well as ensuring an elegantly harmonious overall appearance.
The understated nature of its design and finishing ensures excellent legibility of the functions displayed, thereby respecting the primary purpose of an authentic chronometer.
A white lacquered counter sited at the top of the dial highlights the hours and minutes, while the seconds are boldly displayed around the dial rim on a translucent sapphire crystal ring.
The central dial cut-out with its carefully chamfered contours reveals the seconds wheel-and-pinion and the driving wheel of the tourbillon carriage.
A recessed counter at 9 o’clock indicates the movement’s power reserve, enhanced by the words “HAUT-BAS” (High-Low) appearing in French, Ferdinand Berthoud’s native tongue.
The dial inscription “Val-de-Travers Suisse” accentuates the regional, handcrafted-style nature of the product, referring both to the birthplace of the master watchmaker and to the place where our timepieces are produced.
The straps of the FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 watches are made in an artisanal manner and hand-sewn from top-quality leather.
These distinctively designed double rolled-edge straps are exceptionally supple yet sturdy thanks to the traditional tanning methods used in preparing the hides.
The finely crafted high-tech FERDINAND BERTHOUD folding clasp in 18-carat gold is equipped with a safety mechanism built into the cover and serving to open the clasp by means of two push-buttons so as to avoid inadvertent unbuckling of the strap.
Optimal comfort on the wrist is achieved by adjusting the length of the clasp by means of push-button built into the lower blade.
FERDINAND BERTHOUD chronometers may also be fitted with a resolutely masculine and exclusive 20 mm gold pin buckle.
TRIBUTE TO THE MASTER CLOCKMAKER AND MECHANIC BY APPOINTMENT TO THE FRENCH KING AND THE FRENCH NAVY
This first mechanical hand-wound movement to emerge from Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD in Fleurier is a tribute piece inspired by the exceptional work of the founding father and transcends existing standards in the field of Haute Horlogerie.
Featuring a striking structure and driving exceptionally readable indications, Calibre FB-T.FC is equipped with an exclusive constant-force regulation system with suspended fusée and chain transmission, equipped with a differential winding system. It also has a highly distinctive power-reserve mechanism.
A tourbillon with central seconds hand guarantee the optimal timing adjustment of the movement, whose precision and rate accuracy is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute.Focus
The original fusée and chain mechanism developed by the engineers of Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD occupies an exceptionally small space within the movement thanks to its “suspended” construction.
The barrel and fusée of Calibre FB-T.FC are linked by a chain comprising no less than 474 steel links, including more than 300 pins measuring barely 0.30 mm in diameter and all hand-assembled. The chain measures a total 28 cm long and the maximum tension exercised upon it once in place amounts to three kilos.
When the mainspring is associated with a fusée, the barrel drum turns in one direction when the spring winds down and in the opposite direction when it is wound up, thus causing the chain to wrap around the drum. A distinctive feature of Calibre FB-T.FC lies in the fact that its fusée mechanism has been equipped with an unusually designed differential gear.
Calibre FB-T.FC is equipped with a specific system displaying the movement’s power reserve.
Directly linked to the barrel via a driving wheel, the mechanism uses the winding and letting down motion of the mainspring to make a truncated cone move up and down along a threaded arbor secured to the mainplate.
When the barrel sets the driving wheel into motion, the latter drives the cone by means of two long pegs that push it clockwise when moving upwards and counter-clockwise when travelling downwards, respectively corresponding to the winding and letting down of the mainspring.
A mobile arm tipped with a roller jewel serves as a feeler-spindle in measuring the up-and-down motion of the cone, bringing the arm closer or further away from the centre of rotation. A rake-shaped element along the axis of the arm transmits the movement’s power-reserve level to a hand.
FERDINAND BERTHOUD Calibre FB-T.FC is fitted with a tourbillon organ featuring an innovative direct-drive seconds hand whose performance is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing institute.
Equipped with an aerodynamically shaped oversized variable-inertia balance oscillating at a low frequency (3 Hz), the tourbillon carriage of the Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 performs one rotation per minute.
The balance is made of copper beryllium (CuBE) and equipped with a self-compensating balance-spring made of rust-free alloy.
The terminal curve of the balance-spring is delicately shaped by hand in harmony with the noblest watchmaking traditions. To ensure fine adjustment of its amplitude, the rim (felly) of the balance is fitted with two sets of maillechort inertia-blocks, one complete and the other truncated so as to ensure independent adjustment.
The 67-part titanium tourbillon carriage is held in place by a bridge with a single arch and poised by means of two 18-carat gold studs.
The direct-drive seconds display is enabled by the fact that the direct-drive seconds wheel is identical and co-axial with the wheel driving the tourbillon carriage.
- Mechanical hand-wound Calibre FB-T.FC
- 15 ¾ lignes (diameter 35.50 mm – thickness 8.00 mm)
- 46 jewels
- Indications of the hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve
- Suspended fusée and chain constant-force transmission regulation
- 3 Hz low-frequency tourbillon with direct-drive seconds
- 53-hour power reserve
- Movement precision and rate accuracy certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute
- Octagonal case fitted with four (4) lateral portholes in glareproofed sapphire crystal providing a chance to admire parts of the movement
- Domed, arched and glareproofed sapphire crystal
- Screw-in case-back with glareproofed sapphire crystal
- Crown in 18-carat rose gold with ceramic inlay
- Case in 18-carat rose gold with ceramic inter-horn elements
- Diameter 44.00 mm, thickness 13.00 mm
- Water-resistant to 30 metres
- 50 pieces limited and numbered edition
- Vertical satin-finish black dial with cut-out centre
- White lacquered hours and minutes counter at 12 o’clock
- Recessed power-reserve counter at 9 o’clock
- 18-carat rose gold hours, minutes and power-reserve hands
- Bronze seconds hand
- Hand-sewn rolled-edge double-sided alligator leather
- 18-carat rose gold length-adjustable safety folding clasp
- Also available with an 18-carat rose gold pin buckle